Catamount Knit along

Welcome to the Catamount sweater page! So glad you stopped by.

TheCatamountperched

This pattern is now available for sale for $6.00. Simply click the button below. It will take you to a page where you can pay securely through Paypal, the pattern will be automatically sent to you as a PDF download.

Catamount preview

You don’t have to be a Ravelry member to buy this, but the credit for the button and automatic download all goes to them!

Web

Below are the updates from the knit along held in September and October. Pattern details (notions, gauge, schematic) are at the bottom.

September 29:
This is the final pattern update of the knit-along! How is everyone’s sweater coming out? I know a number of people were still on the sleeves when I posted the joining, so if you’re on the original time line you may just be getting to the joining section now. If that’s the case, don’t worry. I’ll be leaving the pattern here, just the way it is, until October 13th. Please note that date. In my October 13th update I will introduce the pay-for-download PDF version of this pattern and the free version will be gone. It’ll be formatted for printing, with pretty photographs and styled as my other PDF patterns are. If you’re not done by the 13th please save this page to your computer or print it out ahead of time!

September 22:
Here’s part 4 of the pattern. This is the joining section. For all of you still working on the sleeves I’ve decided I’ll be leaving the full pattern up an extra week at the end, so you’ll still have the 6 weeks I’d planned from the start for knitting. I hope you’re all enjoying this sweater, this is the time when it really starts coming together!

September 15:
Part 3 of the pattern is live!

And can you guess what part 4 of the pattern is? If you guessed “the second sleeve” then you’re right! In an effort not to slow people down, but also not too move to fast, here’s what I propose:

  1. Knit your first sleeve.
  2. If you have time, move right on to the second.
  3. Let me know if you want the second sleeve to be the update on the 22nd, or if you’re ready to move forward.

Either post below or in the Catamount thread on ravelry. I’ll be democratic, whichever option gets the most votes wins!

I’d also really love to do a blog post showing people’s progress. So if you want to be in my blog please provide me with a photo of your stripy goodness! All I need is the HTML coding to link to your photo (from flickr, or whichever photo site you prefer) If you want I can link your blog (or site or ravelry project) so send me that info too! My e-mail is becky (dot) herrick (at) gmail (dot) com. If you want to be included please send me something by the 21st and the post will go up on the 22nd.

September 8:
Hello out there? All I hear is crickets, and the clicking of knitting needles… There are some very pretty stripes showing up on Ravelry though! If people would rather chat on Ravelry then here, feel free to show off your progress in the Catamount thread I started awhile back.

September 1:
I hope everyone reading this is as excited as I am! I can’t wait to see how you all interpret this sweater! I’ve been wanting to enjoy mine, but the end of August has been unexpectedly hot, and even I don’t want to wear a wool/mohair sweater when it’s 88F.

Please feel free (please!) to share a link to a photo or blog post about your sweater if you have one available. I’d love to follow along with everyone’s progress. Or just leave your comments in a comment below!

Abbreviations:
DPNs: double pointed needles
EOR: end of round
k: knit
k2tog: knit to stitches together. Right leaning decrease.
m1: Make 1 stitch: Insert left needle, from front to back, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through back loop. 1 stitch increased.
p: purl
pm: place marker
slm: slip marker
ssk: slip two stitches individually as if to knit, knit together through back loop. Left
leaning decrease.
rnd(s): round(s)
RS: right side of work
st(s): stitch(es)
WS: wrong side of work
w&t: Bring yarn between needles, slip next st from left needle to right needle and bring yarn around stitch. Return stitch to left needle. Turn work so other side is facing and bring yarn to correct side to work next row as directed.

August 19:
I’d love to have some input on what everyone would like for the schedule of this Catamount KAL. I’ve been flying through my sweater, but I want the knit along to be at a more average pace. I know not everyone gets 3 or 4 hours of knitting time each day… So:

How long does it will take you to knit a fitted sweater at a fairly large gauge? (or how long do you think it will, if you’re new to sweater knitting?) I’m finding this sweater is fast in the way Owls by Kate Davies was fast – big gauge and well fitted makes the knitting a breeze. I am thinking that the knit along should run for about 6-8 weeks, but I’m open to suggestions!

How often would you like to have the pattern updated? I was thinking, if the knit along is 6 weeks, I’d divide the knitting into 6 fairly equal parts put the next one up each week. Of course this means that some weeks the directions will be more complicated while other weeks they’d be mostly stockinette knitting. Would that be a problem, or a nice breather/ chance for people to catch up?

Finally, I’m currently planning to put all the pattern updates on this page. That way you can find everything you need all in one place. Another option would be to make the updates part of my regular blog with a special tag. Does anyone have a preference?

Thanks for your input!

August 16:
Catamount is a cardigan with buttons at the top and an A-line front opening. This sweater has some waist shaping as well to provide a flattering fit. The stripes of color are highlighted by changes in texture which involve working both knit and purl rows on both the right side and wrong side of the fabric. Catamount will be perfect for wearing around campus on a chilly fall day in Burlington VT, or to keep you warm no matter where you are!

I’m still finishing up knitting Catamount myself. And the pattern is headed out to a tech editor this week. Assuming everything goes as planned I will be posting the first portion of the pattern the first week in September. I will check in here regularly during the knit along, so any time you have questions you can just comment right here and I’ll be around to help out!

This pattern will be available for free, right here, for the duration of the knit along. The pattern will be fully tech edited and ready to go. Once the knit along is complete I will be taking down the free pattern, and a PDF of the completed pattern will become available for sale. I will give plenty of notice before removing the free pattern, but if you do not save it ahead of time I will not be providing it free of charge at a later date.

Right now I’m providing a sketch, some schematics, gauge, and yardage estimates so you can plan ahead and be ready to dive in when the first portion of the pattern goes live! It’s also listed in Ravelry so if you’re a member you can add it to your queue right now!

sketch

Yarn: I’m knitting Catamount in Green Mountain Spinnery, Mountain Mohair; 70% wool, 30% mohair; 140yds/skein. The colors are: (MC) Claret, (CC1) Sky Blue, (CC2) Raspberry, and (CC3) Clove. You will need: 3(3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7) skeins of your MC and just 1 skein of each CC to complete the sweater. To be more specific I’d estimate you’ll need 55(60, 70, 75, 85, 100, 110, 115, 125) yards of each CC.
Gauge: 17sts and 26 rows to 4inches (10cm) in stockinette. Needles size US9 (5.5mm), or size needed to obtain gauge.
The garter stripe sections have a different gauge due to the high amount of garter stitch in them. They knit up at 15 sts and 28 rows to 4inches, and some of the waist and yoke shaping depend on this.

Notions:
3 buttons 1.5 inches, other sizes will work if you are willing to adjust the buttonhole size
circular or straight needles and DPNs in the size to get gauge
4 stitch markers
scrap yarn to hold stitches
tapestry needle

Skills: You will need to know how to:
long tail cast on
knit and purl, both working flat and in the round.
M1:
ssk and k2tog
Bind off
Kitcheners (for sts under each arm)
weave in ends
wrap stitches and turn work for shoulder shaping
This pattern will have no seaming!

Sizes:
To fit bust size: 28(32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60)
Sweaters sizes are listed by recommended bust circumference. The sweater is not designed to close in the front until the yoke – well above the natural bust. The bust, waist, and lower hem are designed to be less then your full circumference at those places so the sweater will drape open.
A note on sizing:
This sweater is designed to be worn with negative ease in the body and zero ease in the yoke. That being said the schematic shows the actual measurements of the sweater at each point while giving a “to fit” recommendation at the bottom.
Several knitters have chosen to knit a size or more larger to give more room in the body. If you choose to do this keep in mind the garter stitch yoke already has more ease built in. Consider working just enough increases before the yoke to give yourself the correct stitch count for the size recommended to fit your bust size. This should ensure an accurate fit across the shoulders.

TheCatamountyoke

88 responses to “Catamount Knit along

  1. This will be my first KAL, I’m looking forward to starting.

  2. This looks like a great little sweater! Beautiful!

  3. Great colors, great shaping. I love this sweater! I can’t wait for the KAL!

  4. Thanks for giving us a little bulletin so that we can get materials ready, can’t wait to start this. It’ll be my first knit cardigan and first KAL.

  5. I am a beginning knitter, still learning how to follow a pattern. I hope it won’t be too hard for me. The cardigan looks cute – is it top-down construction? I like that it calls for big needles!

    • Hello! This should be a good first sweater, there’s some shaping but nothing too crazy.

      The cardigan is knit from the bottom hem up. You should be able to get a good feeling for the pattern before the yoke, which may be the trickiest part.

      And of course I’ll be here if you have any questions!

  6. I’m definitely in!! Looks like a great cardi with great construction. Luv the colors & style.

  7. Hi, I´m in ;-) Can´t wait to start, because my Geodesic cardigan will be finished in the next few days, so I can cast on your lovely cardigan in time.
    Maike

  8. I’m thinking about it… My aunt gave me a big bag of yarn from her stash, and I think this would be a perfrect project for some of it. I just have to see how many of my wips I’ll be able to finish before September.

  9. My first KAL experienced knitter tho. Hoping I can get the yarn in UK

  10. The colors are great!

  11. This is a beautiful sweater. I’ll be making it out of my cormo/mohair blend share yarn from Juniper Moon Farm!! I’ll also be hand dyeing all the colors for my sweater…

    I’m very excited to get started! This will be my first KAL…

    Suzy

  12. I wanted to send a big THANKS! To everyone who has checked in so far!! I’m getting even more excited!

  13. This is gorgeous! I still need to figure out what yarn I’ll be using, but I’m planning on participating!

  14. Count me in! This is beautiful!

  15. Fabulous sweater.
    I’m going stash diving to see what I’ve got that might work!

  16. Beautiful colors and shape! I love the simple detailing of the contrasting garter stitch~

  17. Oh, hey, I want in on this!

  18. Oh, what a chic cardigan. I love, love, love it. I wish I had some semi-solid yarn for this. I don’t have any and I don’t find any here either. I will have to go with solid yarn.

  19. this will be my first knit along too! i’m very excited as it may inspire me to finish it quicker than if i was doing it on my own. how do we get notified of the starting date?

  20. yea! no seaming!!!!!!!

  21. Okay, I’ve chosen my yarn! I’m going to use Knit Picks Wool of the Andes in Claret Heather (very similar to your mc) with ccs evergreen, cranberry, and sapphire heather. I’m already having a bit of guilt at planning on making this for myself rather than as a gift, but who cares!

    • P.S. I’d prefer updates in your regular blog, but I’ll be happy with whatever you decide. I can already tell I’ll have to use smaller needles (I’m a continental knitter, so loosey-goosey sometimes), and I may end up making a larger size than I need, since this yarn is on the light worsted side, but this is going to be fantastic. Thank you!

      • I was thinking of using Wool of the Andes also — but was going to use the sapphire heather as the main color, so your choices are very helpful! I’ve never made a sweater for someone larger than a toddler before, and rarely make myself anything, so this is for me. I don’t really have an opinion on how the timing of the pattern comes out, I will go with the flow . . .

    • Those colors should look great together, nice choices!

  22. I’ve just queued this and set up my following of your blog so blog updates would be cool. I’m going to use some 100 Purewool Worsted in a deep smokey blue for the main colour, not sure on the other bits atm as I don’t have a lot of worsted weight yarn, might have to use some DK instead as I have plenty of that.

    • I’m sure I’ll link to this page when I post new portions of the pattern. So if you’re following the RSS feed you’ll hear about it.

      If you use DK for the stripes you should know some of the waist and yoke shaping depends on the gauge for the garter stripes being a bit bigger then the gauge in stockinette.

      I don’t have the pattern in front of me right now, but the garter stripe stitch gauge is around 3.75 sts to 4″/10cm. It’s only a little different, but that’s what allows the yoke to overlap in the front for the buttons.

      DK may still work ok, but I thought I’d give you a heads up. Best way to know, of course, is to knit a swatch!

  23. I don’t have the yarn for this but will be able to buy it at Rhinebeck in October. Is that too late for the KAL?

    • Depends on how fast you knit! I believe I’ll be posting a portion of the pattern each week for 6 weeks, so if you start after Rhinebeck other people will probably be on the final stretch or finishing up their sweaters. I plan on having the pattern available here until the end of October so all the KAL’ers can finish without feeling rushed.

  24. Your initial questions got me a chuckle. In large gauge, I can whip it out in a day or two. So, a pattern releases over 6 weeks would really kill the impatient me LOL

    It’s a beautiful, eye-pleasing design. Thanks for the specific gift. When I check Ravelry for the pattern, it links it back to your blog. So I assume pattern will be available in September in increments, correct?

    • Wow! That’s even faster then I knit this sweater!

      Yes, the first portion will go up on this page September first, check back then!

      • I’m with Sarah. Hoping that the instructions will go up faster, because I’d whip up a worsted-weight cardi, especially one this pretty, in a week. I’m looking forward to seeing what comes up tomorrow and am ready to put my other WIPs aside. Thanks, Becky!

  25. This is my first KAL, and will be my second sweater. Once a week will keep me challenged, because I’m not that fast a knitter yet, but not overwhelm me. Thanks so much for doing this!

  26. it looks greta, and i am sthinking of joining (not 100% sure, need some pressies made soon:) – regarding pace, i would not be too worried, as some people have more time and some less and you could not match everyones schedule anyway. the cardi looks very wearable and nice, and i like its seamlessness!

  27. Is your yardage based on the smaller or large skein of the Mountain Mohair? Ravelry says there two skein sizes.
    Thanks,
    Ellen

  28. Seeing pictures of your Royal Rose has made me reconsider color choices… that is one gorgeous combination!

    • The original colors are really perfect for me, but somehow I needed to change them. Probably because I try not to knit only red sweaters. The purples and blues took a bit of swatching but I’m really happy with how it came out! I have all the colors listed, you can see them here.

      • If I can bug you again… in the photo with the three balls, which color is the greenish-blue? Not an aqua, not a mint… I think I’m in love with Jamieson’s now.

        • Jamieson’s is dangerous to love, they have 176 colors to choose from… There’s a reason they’re known as the best fair isle color selection around!

          That specific blueish green is the color Blue Lovat, I loved it so much it’s the main color for my sweater! It’s always in the background put present through both motifs.

  29. Hi, I want to sign in, too! I’m looking forward to your first piece of pattern! greeting, Trudl

  30. I love the fitted design! My friend, the Wooly Daisy, is joining you and sent me to take a look… I will have to ‘shop my stash’ as well and see if I can join in.

  31. I’m knitting the 40, so I start with 120 sts. After the four decrease rows, I should have 112 sts, but the pattern is stating 116… which is correct?
    Thanks!

  32. hi becky-i’m extremely short waisted-i’m doing the size 40-i don’t want the shaping to hit me wrong-shall i only knit for 6.5 inches? i’m only 5′ 2.”

  33. Hi Becky… It looks like when starting the bust shaping that by doing M1, slm 4 times that they increases are not going to be symmetrical? Is this what’s intended or should it be M1, slm twice, and then slm, M1 the last two times? Thanks.

    • You’re correct that the number of stitches between the last marker and the edge of the garment won’t change – but it doesn’t need to. The increases are placed evenly across the garment and aren’t directional. The new fabric is spaced evenly so it grows into the yoke smoothly.

      Hope that helps!

  34. Hi! I posted this question on the ravelry thread also, but wasn’t sure where the best place was to ask, so I’ll put it here too! I started a little late, and have just gotten to the bust shaping part of the pattern. I’m a little concerned though, because my row gauge is off (I am getting 23 rows to 4 inches instead of 26) and don’t know how this will affect the shaping of this part of the sweater. I had added an extra half inch (I’m knitting the size 36, but knit until 7.5 inches) to the lower part because I’m long-waisted and didn’t want the sweater to end up too short. Any thoughts on whether the row gauge issue will be a problem for this part of the sweater, and if so, what I should do about it? This is my first adult sweater, and first fitted garment, so I don’t have any experience with this … I’m dying to just keep knitting, but don’t really want to screw it up!

    • It depends on if you’re getting more then 6.5 rows to the inch or fewer. After the increase section there’s another inch or so of even knitting before the joining row. So the biggest problem you could run into is having the body longer then directed by the time you finish the increases. If you want a slightly longer body anyway that wouldn’t be too much of a problem. If your row gauge is only off a little bit you’ll just have a little more (or less) in the “knit even” section and it’ll be fine. Also, if you’re getting 6.5 – 7 rows per inch you should still be fine because the increases will be finished a little lower in the sweater, but since it isn’t designed to close in the front at that point it won’t matter too much.

      Does that help?

      • A little. I’m concerned because the pattern gauge says 26 rows in 4 inches, which would be 6.5 rows per inch, and at the 23 rows per 4 inches that I’m getting, that means less than 6 rows per inch (5.75 rows per inch), which is a lot less than what you’re saying. Since my stitch gauge is right (or even slightly tighter) I don’t know how to fix it by changing needles, but it sounds like I’ll finish the bust increases and already have the sweater longer than it’s supposed to be. Do I need to change the way I do the increases, or just follow the pattern and hope for the best? I never realized that my row gauge could be so off from my stitch gauge!

        • Oh, sorry, I didn’t see you’d given me your row gauge before as well. Anyway, at 5.75 rows per inch you are pretty close. Here’s how I have the pattern setup:

          There are 40 rows in the increase section so: 40/6.5 = 6.1 inches. The waist is knit to 7 + 6.1 = 13.1 inches in the body, and then knit even to 14 inches.

          I think you have two good options:

          Option 1: In your case you’ve got 40/5.75 = 6.9 inches. The waist is knit to 7.5 + 6.9 = 14.4 inches in the body.

          So you could just follow the directions, don’t work any even rows after the increase, and you’ll only be a half inch longer then the design, which really isn’t too bad at all. This will work fine as long as you’re sure you’re getting 23 rows to 4 inches and not actually 22 or 20…

          Option 2: This requires working the M1 on a wrong side. It wouldn’t be too hard (just purl into the strand between the stitches instead of knitting) But you may want a row counter to make sure you don’t miss an increase. That would give you 30 increase rows:

          30/5.75 = 5.1 inches. The waist is knit to 7.5 + 5.1 = 12.6 inches in the body. Then you could just knit to 14 inches even and you’ll be all set!

          I don’t recommend increasing every right side row. That’d give you just 20 increase rows: 20/5.75 = 3.5 inches which would be a lot of horizontal increases in a very short vertical distance.

          • Thank you!! I have a much better understanding now. It sounds like the increase section will only be elongated by a little less than an inch, and half an inch more length total is fine given that I’m long-waisted. I’ll double and triple check the row gauge and probably keep to the pattern. Thanks for all your help, now to catch up, and hopefully get a picture up on ravelry!

  35. hi becky-i just finished my last increase-i now have 156 stitches. the sweater measures 13 inches. remember i’m the very short waisted one. shall i knit till 13.5 inches-or stop now.

    p.s. my bust is really 36″ but i’m doing the 40″ inch size to compensate for my gauge difference.

    • I recommend taking a tape measure and checking. Measure from the crease of your armpit down to where you want the bottom edge of the sweater to land. Since you’re short waisted 13 inches is probably good, but checking will tell you for certain.

  36. I am remembering why I hate DPN’s, I’m knitting both sleeves at once with one on DPN’s and the other on magic loop. I think I need to get another set of 5.5mm tips so I can do both at once without fighting my needles. I need to both at once seeing as it’s handspun and random colour changes happen in it.

  37. I have almost finished both sleeves… It was a wonderful rainy weekend to sit on the couch and watch tv and knit! I’m ready for the next part — how is everyone else doing?

    • I’m still waiting for my second pair of 5.5mm tips to arrive so I can magic loop both sleeves to use my contrast handspun properly. In the meantime I’ve started a Whisper cardigan which will go on hold again as soon as the tips arrive.

    • I’m not even half-way through the first sleeve — had to acquire appropriate needles, and was delayed by that a couple of times. I’m fine with being behind if everyone else is ready to go on — I can do my best to get caught up along the way!

    • Thanks for the updates everyone, keep ‘em coming! My office is moving this week so i won’t be able to get the update online until after 6pm est. But i won’t forget about it!

  38. i’ve been away for a week!!!! could only bring a small knitting project with me so i’m behind! yikes. i’m about half way thru the first sleeve. hope to get caught up!!!!

    • I know how you feel, my needles took most of a week to arrive, I’m now about 1/4 of the way through both sleeves. Went away yesterday on a bus trip so like you needed small projects so none got done then either.

  39. ARGH! I’M STILL ON THE SLEEVES!!!

  40. Quick sleeve question. Is the length where we put it on stitch holders the measurement from cuff to underarm? I have short arms so need to do some adjustment. I’m about halfway through the sleeves atm.
    Thanks

  41. Ok, so while I am officially on the last section of the pattern, there is no way that I will be completely done by tomorrow (which was my goal). So close, though, and I love the sweater. I can only hope it looks as good on me as it does on you . . .

    • It really starts to pick up speed in the final section! Just make sure you’ve saved the pattern because I will be taking the free version down tomorrow.

      I know there are a few other people who are almost done, I’m hoping to check back in after Rhinebeck and maybe show off a few FOs.

  42. I got side-tracked for a bit, but I’m back at it too! I’m hoping to finish it up by the weekend. I have the pattern printed out so I know where I’m at!

  43. I finished mine a couple of days ago and it came off the blocking board this morning. I love it! The scrappy handspun worked wonderfully as the contrast colours and it’s beautifully warm. My main yarn was Purewool Merino 3-ply worsted. I’ve saved the pattern and I can see me doing it again in the future.

  44. hi,
    I just bought the patterns. I was wondering if it would work with different yarns. I live in Brazil and there arent many good 100% wool yarns available.
    I have two options.
    The first id 100% New Zealand Merino wool (8 ply) which is lightly fulled after spinning – a friend brought it from one of her trips.
    And the second is a 8 ply 60% merino 40% angora yarn called Aslan trends oxford – an argentinian yarn, very popular here.
    Thanks for any help you can give me.

    • I’m sure it would look lovely in other types of yarn! It looks like 8 ply yarn is another way of saying DK weight yarn which might be a little thinner then the yarn I used for the design. I recommend knitting a gauge swatch. Try to get 17 stitches to 4inches (10 cm) Seeing if you like the way the fabric looks with that yarn.

      I think that doing the stripes with the merino/angora yarn and the body with the merino so the halo stands out against the rest of the fabric would look great!

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